王大仁與巴黎世家分手 Designer Alexander Wang to Leave Balenciaga
There is another major job opening in fashion. Kering, the French luxury goods conglomerate, announced on Friday that the designer Alexander Wang was leaving the helm of Balenciaga after less than three years by “joint decision.”
時尚業又出現了一個重大職位空缺。週五（7月31日），法國奢侈品集團開雲(Kering)宣佈，設計師王大仁(Alexander Wang)將不再執掌巴黎世家(Balenciaga)，稱“這一決定是雙方共同做出的”。王大仁在巴黎世家供職不到三年。
Mr. Wang will concentrate on his namesake brand, based in New York, which he maintained during his time as creative director at Balenciaga. A search has begun for his successor in France.
王大仁將專注於自己在紐約的同名品牌；在擔任巴黎世家的創意總監期間，他同時經營自己的品牌。集團已經開始在法國尋找他的接任者。
No specific reason was given for the split, though according to a person close to the negotiations who spoke on the condition of anonymity, Mr. Wang is about to announce a minority investment in his own brand.
聲明中沒有說明雙方終止合作的具體原因，不過據一位瞭解談判內情的匿名人士說，王大仁即將宣佈有一筆少數股權投資到他自己的品牌。
Mr. Wang was named to the top design post in 2012 after Nicolas Ghesquière, who had revitalized the brand since taking over in 1997, left over creative differences with Kering’s management.
1997年，尼古拉斯·蓋斯奇埃爾(Nicolas Ghesquière)接管巴黎世家，使之重獲新生，2012年，因與開雲集團管理層在創意方面的分歧，蓋斯奇埃爾離開該品牌，之後王大仁獲任該頂級設計職位。
The appointment surprised the fashion world, as Mr. Wang, then 28, was known for the hip, downtown aesthetic embodied by his own brand, as opposed to a couture sensibility.
當時這項任命震驚了時尚界，因爲時年28歲的王大仁以時尚的城市審美聞名（他自己的品牌就是典型代表），而不是高級定製時裝的那種感覺。
Balenciaga is considered one of Kering’s “emerging luxury brands,” along with Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane and others. Analysts estimate that Balenciaga alone has annual revenue of 350 million euros ($387 million), which would represent less than 5 percent of Kering’s overall luxury revenue, based on results released this week.
巴黎世家被認爲是開雲集團的“新興奢侈品牌”之一，其他類似的品牌包括斯特拉·麥卡特尼(Stella McCartney)、亞歷山大·麥昆(Alexander McQueen)和克里斯托弗·凱恩(Christopher Kane)等。分析師們估計，巴黎世家的年收入爲3.5億歐元（約合3.87億美元）。根據本週發佈的數據，這佔開雲集團奢侈品總收入的不到5%。
Reports that Mr. Wang was about to leave the 96-year-old brand surfaced this week in Women’s Wear Daily.
本週（具體來說是7月29日——譯註），關於王大仁即將離開這個有96年曆史的品牌的報道最早出現在《女裝日報》(Women’s Wear Daily)上。
In a statement on Friday, Isabelle Guichot, chief executive of Balenciaga, said: “We are all at Balenciaga extremely grateful to Alexander for his important contribution to the style and history of this iconic house. The dynamic growth of the brand over the last years bears testimony to his successful creative work.”
在週五的聲明中，巴黎世家的首席執行官伊莎貝拉·吉紹(Isabelle Guichot)說，“巴黎世家的所有人都十分感激亞歷山大爲這個標誌性的時裝公司的風格和歷史做出的貢獻。該品牌在過去幾年裏的蓬勃發展是他成功的創造性工作的明證。”
According to Thomas Chauvet, an analyst covering luxury goods at Citi Investment Research, the growth at Balenciaga was slower than that of similar smaller brands, and that may have contributed to Kering’s decision to make a change.
據花旗投資研究公司(Citi Investment Research)的奢侈品分析師托馬斯·肖韋(Thomas Chauvet)稱，巴黎世家的增長速度慢於類似的更小的品牌，這可能是開雲集團決定做出改變的原因之一。
Still, Mr. Chauvet said, “it is a shame Alexander Wang is being replaced, because it will take another 12 months to get a new creative direction and products in place.”
不過，肖韋說，“王大仁被換掉挺可惜的，因爲要找到新的創意總監並推出新產品需要再花12個月的時間。”
Mr. Wang’s appointment was counter to industry wisdom about the demands of maintaining one’s own brand while overseeing another. When John Galliano was fired from Dior in 2011 over anti-Semitic remarks, he attributed his behavior to the pressure of being responsible for two brands (his own as well as Dior).
當年王大仁的任命與該行業的經驗相悖——在經營自己品牌的同時監管另一個品牌是很大的挑戰。2011年，約翰·加利亞諾(John Galliano)因反猶太言論被迪奧(Dior)解聘時稱，自己做出那樣的行爲是因爲同時負責兩個品牌（他自己的品牌和迪奧）壓力太大。
After Mr. Wang’s appointment, however, many young designers took on dual roles, including Jonathan Anderson at Loewe, Zac Posen at Brooks Brothers and Jeremy Scott at Moschino.
不過，王大仁獲得任命後，很多年輕設計師都擔任了雙重職位，比如喬納森·安德森(Jonathan Anderson)兼任羅意威(Loewe)的設計師，扎克·波森(Zac Posen)兼任布魯克斯兄弟(Brooks Brothers)的設計師，傑里米·斯科特(Jeremy Scott)兼任Moschino的設計師。
Mr. Wang’s 10 collections for Balenciaga met with a generally positive reaction, though no single look or accessory proved a blockbuster. “Wang has done an O.K. job, but not the super job Kering was hoping for,” said Luca Solca, head of luxury goods research at Exane BNP Paribas.
王大仁爲巴黎世家設計的十個系列總的來說獲得了正面反響，但沒有哪個造型或配飾曾引起轟動。“王大仁的表現還可以，但是沒有開雲集團期望得那麼卓越，”巴黎銀行(Exane BNP Paribas)的奢侈品研究主管盧卡·索爾卡(Luca Solca)說。
The end of the relationship may revive the case for having a designer who can devote creative capital to a single house.
這段合作關係結束後，尋找能把全部創作精力用於一個時裝公司的設計師可能會成爲新的潮流。
“Kering needs a designer that can really propel it to a higher level,” Mr. Solca said. “It should be next in line to blossom into a bigger business.”
“開雲集團需要一個真正能把巴黎世家推向更高層次的設計師，”索爾卡說，“巴黎世家應該是下一個成就更大事業的時裝公司。”
Mr. Wang’s last show for Balenciaga will be on Oct. 2 in Paris.
王大仁爲巴黎世家設計的最後一個時裝秀將於10月2日在巴黎舉辦。
