你能接受男人穿真絲嗎大綱
This summer the silk road is running in a new direction: leading not from India, but from Italy. And men's fashion – from suits to shirts, trousers and even raincoats – is being reimagined in the fabric.
今年夏天，“絲綢之路”有了全新路線：並非由印度、而是由意大利引領。男士時裝——從西服到襯衣、褲子甚至雨衣——都因真絲而再次充滿想象空間。Ermenegildo Zegna's new Passion for Silk range includes sharply tailored jackets with mother-of-pearl buttons (£1,090), matching trousers (£900) and print silk shirts (£880). “Silk has amazing properties,” says Anna Zegna, image director at the Italian label. “It's versatile and luxurious, but it is also the ideal fabric to create a modern, masculine silhouette.”
傑尼亞(Ermenegildo Zegna)新推出的Passion for Silk系列包括了綴珍珠母鈕釦的經典款夾克（售價1090英鎊），把它用來與褲子（售價900英鎊）以及印花絲綢襯衣（售價880英鎊）相搭配。“絲綢具有神奇的特性，”意大利品牌傑尼亞形象總監安娜•傑尼亞(Anna Zegna)說。“它功能多樣，豪華奢侈，但它也是打造現代陽剛男裝的理想面料。”Etro, too, showed a large number of silk jackets and suits for spring/summer in everything from bold paisley patterns to conservative plain shades of blue-grey in rougher finishes. Silk “is both practical and esoteric”, says creative director Kean Etro. “It takes colour like no other material and adds richness to the cloth; you can achieve all sorts of effects with it. It can be rough or smooth, dull or shiny.”
今年春夏季，埃特羅(Etro)也推出了很多款真絲夾克及西服，從風格大膽的佩斯里印花(Paisley Pattern)款到傳統的簡約型藍灰暗紋糙面款式，一應俱全。真絲“既實用又神祕”，埃特羅創意總監基恩•埃特羅(Kean Etro)說。“它的給色效果最出色，同時又能增加面料的華麗，可以呈現出各種效果。它既能糙，又能滑爽；既能陰暗又能光彩照人。”
But will men really wear silk? Aside from the usual feminine associations, it isn't, despite Etro's claims to practicality, the easiest of fabrics to care for: it stains, wrinkles and let's not mention the dry-cleaning bills.
但男士會真願意穿真絲衣服嗎？儘管埃特羅一再強調其實用性，但除了常把真絲用作女性服裝面料外，伺候它並不容易：它不耐髒，容易起皺，更甭提還有不菲的乾洗費用。Zegna clearly believes the answer is “yes”. Indeed, in 2009, the group put its investment where its fibres were, and acquired Tessitura di Novara, a company based in northern Italy that has been producing silks since 1932. Now, together with the main Zegna manufacturing base, the silk range can be spun, dyed, woven and finished entirely in-house.
傑尼亞明確認爲男士會喜歡真絲服裝。2009年，它甚至出資收購了自己的真絲面料供應商Tessitura di Novara公司，該公司位於意大利北部地區，自1923年以來一起生產各種絲綢面料。如今，與傑尼亞主要的製造基地精誠合作，從制紗、染色、針織到最終面料的整個絲綢生產過程完全在公司內部完成。“It was just after we had just finished the current collection that I saw the Passion for Silk campaign from Zegna,” says Etro. “I'm sure people think we get together and decide these things in advance, but I promise you we don't!”
“我們剛剛製作完成當前真絲系列後，纔看到傑尼亞的Passion for Silk系列產品的推介活動，”埃特羅說。“我確信大家會覺得我們兩家是提前合起夥來決定的這些事，但我向你保證我們並沒有這麼做！”In London, Savile Row tailor Richard James has noticed increased demand for silk over the past couple of years, particularly from bespoke customers. “I'm not sure that men have ever thought of silk as being overly feminine,” he says. “Silk pocket squares, silk linings, silk ties, silk shirts, silk socks ... I'd say men have always embraced silk and used it very cleverly as a means of self-expression. Silk adds a bit of dressiness, so it's perfect for evening wear.”
在倫敦，薩維爾街(Savile Row)裁縫師理查德•詹姆斯(Richard James)注意到真絲需求在過去幾年呈上升趨勢，尤以定製客戶爲甚。“男士是否曾把真絲看作專屬女性的面料，我不敢肯定，”他說。“口袋用絲綢方巾、真絲裏襯、真絲領帶、真絲襯衣、真絲襪子……我想說男士一直喜歡絲綢，也一直巧妙地把它用來表現自我。真絲可以增添一絲時髦感，因此用作晚裝再合適不過了。”Silk is also one way to make a statement – see Tom Ford's lilac tuxedo jacket (£2,000), main picture, or Burberry Prorsum's blue metallic raincoat (£1,895).
真絲也是品牌展露心跡的方式——諸位看看湯姆•福特(Tom Ford)推出的淡紫色燕尾服外套（售價2000英鎊）以及巴寶莉-珀鬆(Burberry Prorsum)推出的發亮款藍色雨衣（售價1895英鎊）便一清二楚了。So what about caring for silk? “It's not really more difficult to care for than any other luxury fabric,” says James. “But you've got to look after it. It's not polyester!” Etro, meanwhile, insists that silk is “the hardest-working” of all fabrics, citing its versatility.
那麼該如何伺候真絲料呢？“真絲料也並不比其它奢侈面料難伺候，”詹姆斯說。“但你必須好好養護，它可不是聚酯面料！”與此同時，埃特羅堅持真絲是所有面料中“用途最廣泛”，他指的是它的功能多樣。If pure silk still proves too much of a sartorial leap, it is an easier sell when mixed with other traditional fabrics. “We often mix it with some wool, to give it body, or cotton for a more casual look,” Etro says.
如果說用純真絲料做服裝以實現巨大飛躍還任重道遠的話，那麼與其它傳統面料混紡後，銷售起來則要順利得多。“我們常把它與羊毛混紡，以增加形體感；要不就把它與棉混紡，以營造更爲休閒的風格，”埃特羅說。James agrees: “Mixing silk with linen, wool or cotton gives it more structure and makes it easier to work with. It adds a defining edge to a fabric, giving it lustre, which makes for a clean silhouette. Wool and silk blends are popular this season. As are linen and silk blends; the earthiness of linen combines beautifully with the sharpness of silk.”
詹姆斯對此也表示贊同：“把真絲與亞麻布、羊毛或是棉布混紡，紋理感更強，也更容易伺候；同時增加了面料的棱角感，光澤感也更明顯，穿上後顯得有板有眼。羊毛與真絲混紡料是今年春夏季的流行面料，亞麻布與真絲混紡面料也是如此，亞麻布的質樸與真絲的時髦珠聯璧合，相得益彰。”Silk-mix fabrics that work for every day include navy blazers in a 92 per cent silk/8 per cent linen mix from Piombo (£1,085); one-button blazers in a linen, wool and silk blend from Brioni (£1,435); soft grey single-breasted jackets in a cashmere and silk blend from Loro Piana (£2,195); and jackets in equal amounts of cotton and silk from Sandro (£410).
適合每天穿的真絲混合料服裝有Piombo推出的深藍色運動夾克（92%的真絲與8%的亞麻布，售價1085英鎊），布萊奧尼(Brioni)推出的單粒扣運動夾克（由亞麻布、羊毛以及真絲混紡面料製作而成，售價1435英鎊），羅洛•皮雅納(Loro Piana)推出的柔灰色單排扣夾克（由羊絨與真絲混紡面料製作而成，售價2195英鎊），以及桑德羅推出的、棉與真絲各佔一半的夾克衫（售價410英鎊）。So, check the label of your summer jacket: you could just be wearing a touch of this season's most sought-after fabric and not even know it.
所以，請諸位不妨瞧一下自己夏季夾克的標籤：您可能穿着今年春夏季最流行的面料，而自己仍矇在鼓裏呢！
