跟着奧斯卡最佳外語片遊羅馬
Paolo Sorrentino’s mesmerizing film “La Grande Bellezza” (“The Great Beauty”), which won an Oscar for best foreign-language film in 2014, sparked controversy and endless conversation about the current state of the Italian capital. But one fact was indisputable: Rome, as the film’s seductive backdrop, was gorgeous. This is true in every season, but especially in colder months when the summer flood of tourists ebbs. From outlying neighborhoods that beckon with new restaurants and bars, to the historic center, where Mr. Sorrentino’s protagonist, Jep, wandered through so many scenes, Rome remains poised to prove that its beauty runs deep.
保羅·索倫蒂諾(Paolo Sorrentino)迷人的影片《絕美之城》(The Great Beauty)獲得了2014年奧斯卡最佳外語片獎。這部電影很有爭議，引發了關於意大利首都現狀的各種討論。但有一個事實無可辯駁：美麗的羅馬爲影片提供了迷人的背景。一年四季，羅馬都是如此動人，尤其是在較冷的月份，因爲那時夏季的遊客大軍已經退去。歷史悠久的市中心是《絕美之城》的主人公傑普熱衷漫遊之地；而偏遠的郊區開了很多新餐館和酒吧——不論是市區還是郊外，羅馬仍泰然自若地展現着博大精深之美。
1. Bathing Beauty | 3 p.m.
1. 出水芙蓉 | 下午3點
One of the most poignant scenes in “La Grande Bellezza” transpires at the ruins of the Terme di Caracalla, colossal Roman baths that date from the third century. Jep’s twilight encounter with an illusory giraffe amid the spectacular ruins is memorable, but no tricks are needed to make this often-overlooked site unforgettable in the light of day either. The soaring walls of the complex, remarkably well-preserved in parts, are a terra-cotta-hued skeleton providing clues to the lost grandeur of this glorified gym, where amenities ranged from mosaic floors to thermal pools flanked by museum-worthy marble sculptures. Admission, 6 euros, or $6.70 at $1.11 to the euro.
《絕美之城》中最令人傷感的一幕發生在卡拉卡拉浴場(Terme di Caracalla)的廢墟前——暮色中，在壯觀的廢墟前，傑普遇到幻想中的長頸鹿，那場面讓人印象深刻。不過，在白天的陽光下，無需任何拍攝技巧，也能把這座經常被遊人忽視的建築拍好。這個龐大的羅馬浴場的歷史可以追溯到3世紀，某些部分仍保存得十分完好，高聳的牆壁如同赤陶色的骨架，能讓我們想見這座輝煌場館曾經的壯麗，它的設施十分完善，從鑲嵌地板到熱浴池，浴池兩側的大理石雕塑具有博物館收藏價值。門票6歐元，按照1歐元兌換1.11美元的匯率計算，約合6.70美元。
2. Gallery Hunting | 5:30 p.m.
2. 畫廊獵奇 | 下午5點半
Fast-forward nearly two millenniums for a glimpse of what constitutes art in contemporary Rome by visiting a cluster of galleries near Campo de’ Fiori. Start at Galleria Varsi, a two-year-old space dedicated to graffiti and street art that also organizes wall paintings across the city. Around the corner at Dorothy Circus Gallery, the blood-red walls showcase surrealist Pop Art. And nearby, a cobblestone courtyard and carved-stone fountain flank the entrance to the prestigious Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, which moved to this spacious location last year; until April 4, look for works by the emerging British artist Eddie Peake.
讓我們快速轉換到近兩千年後，去參觀鮮花廣場(Campo de’ Fiori)附近的一羣畫廊，一窺當代羅馬的藝術構成。從瓦爾西畫廊(Galleria Varsi)開始，這個畫廊已經開張兩年，專注塗鴉和街頭藝術，還在市內各處組織牆繪。轉過街角就是多蘿西馬戲團畫廊(Dorothy Circus Gallery)，血紅色的牆壁上展示着超現實主義波普藝術作品。附近還有著名的洛肯·奧尼爾畫廊(Galleria Lorcan O’Neill)，它去年才搬到這個寬敞的所在，入口的一側是鵝卵石庭院，另一側是雕石噴泉。從現在至4月4日，這裏展示英國藝術新秀埃迪·皮克(Eddie Peake)的作品。
3. Centocelle Chow | 8 p.m.
3. 琴託切萊區的美食 | 晚上8點
Rome’s traditional guanciale-laced pasta dishes — carbonara, amatriciana, gricia — are in no danger of extinction, but if more creative restaurants like Mazzo start opening, they might be. This tiny spot in the far-flung Centocelle neighborhood was opened in 2013 by a pair of talented young chefs intent on spinning Roman cuisine into delicious new territory. A highlight of a recent meal was rösti with Romanesco broccoli and pecorino, a dish overshadowed only by three succulent meatballs smothered in sweet caramelized onions. The snug space seats only about a dozen, between one rough-hewed communal table and a small counter, so reservations are essential. Dinner for two, about 60 euros.
烤麪條加乾酪沙司(carbonara)、茄汁醃肉意麪(amatriciana)和雜貨店風味面(gricia)，這些意大利傳統的醃豬臉肉麪食目前沒有滅絕的危險，但是如果出現更多馬佐(Mazzo)這樣的創意餐廳，它們就得當心了。馬佐是一家小店，位於偏遠的琴託切萊區，是兩位才華橫溢的年輕大廚於2013年開設的，他們決心開拓羅馬美食的新疆域。前不久我在那裏進晚餐，配有羅馬花椰菜和佩科裏諾乾酪的土豆煎餅極爲美味，不過甜焦糖洋蔥燜肉丸多汁爽口，更勝一籌。這個舒適的餐館中只有十幾個座位，包括一個質樸的公用餐桌和一個小吧檯，所以預訂很重要。兩人晚餐約需60歐元。
4. Pigneto Party | 11 p.m.
4. 皮奈託區的派對 | 晚上11點
From Centocelle, the tram back toward the city center stops in the night-life neighborhood of Pigneto, so finish your night there. Beer-drinkers should head to Birra Più, a bottle shop and pub with craft beers from Brewfist and Birrificio Emiliano on tap. For something stronger, seek out Co. So. Cocktails & Social, a relatively new bar that pours creative concoctions like the Carbonara Sour, made with pork-fat-infused vodka, egg, black pepper, lemon juice and simple syrup. Or for music, swing by Yeah! Pigneto, an unpretentious cafe where local bands and D.J.s often perform amid the cool vintage décor on weekends.
從琴託切萊區搭電車回市中心途中會經過夜生活區皮奈託(Pigneto)，可以在那裏結束這一夜。啤酒愛好者應該去“更多啤酒”(Birra Più)，它既是酒吧也賣酒，供應Brewfist釀酒廠和埃米利亞諾釀酒廠(Birrificio Emiliano)的精釀桶裝啤酒。如果想喝更烈一點的酒，可以去Co. So. Cocktails & Social酒吧，它相對較新，供應創意雞尾酒，比如“卡爾博納拉酸酒”(Carbonara Sour)，原料包括加有豬油的伏特加、雞蛋、黑胡椒、檸檬汁和純糖漿。想聽音樂的話，就去樸素的Yeah! Pigneto咖啡館，它有酷酷的復古裝飾品，當地樂隊和D.J.經常在週末來這裏表演。
5. Market Choices | 10:30 a.m.
5. 選對市場 | 上午10點半
There were groans when the Mercato di Testaccio — one of the city’s oldest markets — was moved to a newly built complex in 2012, and for good reason: The bright, sanitized space feels more like an anonymous mall than a Roman market. For a more satisfying market experience, head to MercatoMonti, where about two dozen vendors — an upstart collective of young designers, artisans and vintage dealers — sell everything from felt fedoras and vintage sunglasses to striped sweaters and one-of-a-kind dresses made by local designers.
2012年，羅馬最古老的市場之一泰斯塔喬市場(Mercato di Testaccio)搬到新建的綜合建築樓裏，引發了不少怨言。這也難免：那個明亮乾淨的地方感覺更像普通的購物中心，而不是羅馬的市場。要想獲得更滿意的市場體驗，就去蒙蒂市場(MercatoMonti)吧，那裏有二十多個攤鋪，是年輕設計師、手工藝人和古董交易商的新聚集地，從氈帽、復古墨鏡、條紋毛衣，到當地設計師製作的孤品連衣裙，各種貨物應有盡有。
6. Prime Panini | 12:30 p.m.
6. 最好吃的帕尼尼熱三明治 | 下午12點半
The labyrinthine lanes of Trastevere west of the Tiber River are lined with dubious dining options, but hidden among them is a refreshing new exception, the closet-size cafe Pianostrada Laboratorio di Cucina. Opened last May by four women — a mother, two daughters and a friend — this piccolissimo spot serves homemade dishes and outstanding panini using the region’s best ingredients. For lunch, try the Pane Alici, prepared with creamy stracciatella cheese, truffled anchovies and arugula on a black, seppia-ink bun made in-house (9 euros).
臺伯河西岸特拉斯泰韋雷區錯綜複雜的小巷裏有很多飯店，總體來說，讓人不太放心，不過小巧的Pianostrada Laboratorio di Cucina咖啡館是個清新的例外。去年5月，四個女人——一個母親、兩個女兒和一個朋友——開了這家迷你咖啡館，它專門供應家常菜，以及用當地最佳食材製作的超棒帕尼尼熱三明治(panini)。午餐可以嘗試Pane Alici餐館，那裏有柔滑的雞蛋乾酪湯、塊菌鳳尾魚以及頂上有芝麻菜的自制黑圓麪包（9歐元）。
7. Macro Arts | 3 p.m.
7. 巨大的藝術品 | 下午3點
The Museo d’Arte Contemporanea Roma, or Macro, housed in a former Peroni brewery, is often overshadowed by the city’s other contemporary art museum, the Maxxi — an impressive, modern structure designed by the architect Zaha Hadid. But don’t judge a museum by its facade. Macro presents more substantive exhibitions, from provocative portraiture photography to large-scale installations, like a multicolored crocheted work by the artist Toshiko Horiuchi MacAdam that served as an ersatz jungle gym for neighborhood children in 2014. The museum also expanded a few years ago with a spacious new wing. Admission, 13.50 euros.
羅馬馬克羅當代藝術博物館(Macro)坐落在佩羅尼啤酒廠(Peroni)原址之上，它經常被該市的另一個當代藝術博物館Maxxi蓋過風頭。Maxxi的場館是建築師扎哈·哈迪德(Zaha Hadid)設計的，現代感十足，令人難忘。不過不要光從外表評判博物館。馬克羅博物館推出的重要展覽更多，有顛覆性的肖像攝影，也有大型裝置作品，比如藝術家堀內紀子的彩色編織作品，2014年這件作品被用做附近孩子的攀爬架。幾年前該博物館還擴建了一個寬敞的新側翼。門票13.50歐元。
8. Sweet Stroll | 5 p.m.
8. 甜蜜漫步 | 下午5點
A short walk from Macro are the milk-bottle-lined walls of Come il Latte, an adorable gelateria scooping some of the creamiest gelato in Rome. In contrast to many of the city’s top gelato shops, like Fatamorgana and Claudio Torcè’s Il Gelato, this artisanal gelateria, which opened in 2012, doesn’t serve scores of unusual flavors. Instead, the owner Nicoletta Chiacchiari uses top-notch ingredients to improve familiar favorites, resulting in caramel seasoned with pink Himalayan salt and pistachio studded with bright-green Sicilian nuts. After indulging in a cone, walk off some of the calories on a stroll north to Quartiere Coppedè, a curious quarter marked by beautiful Art Nouveau palazzi whose whimsical towers and ornate facades look plucked from a fairy tale.
從馬克羅博物館步行一小段，就可以來到迷人的Come il Latte冰激凌店，這裏的牆上擺滿牛奶瓶，供應羅馬最柔滑的冰激凌球。這家手工冰激凌店2012年纔開張，與該市的很多高檔冰激凌店（比如Fatamorgana和Claudio Torcè’s Il Gelato）不同，它並不供應很多罕見口味。相反，店主妮科萊塔·基亞基亞里(Nicoletta Chiacchiari)採用一流原料，在常見口味基礎上做改進，比如用粉色喜馬拉雅岩鹽給焦糖冰激凌調味，在開心果中點綴鮮綠色的西西里島堅果。放縱地享用一個甜筒之後，可以向北走到科佩德街區(Quartiere Coppedè)，把冰激凌的熱量消耗掉一些。這個奇特的街區以美麗的新藝術派宮殿聞名，它們古怪的塔樓和華麗的正面像是來自童話世界。
9. Monteverde Meal | 8:30 p.m.
9. 蒙特韋爾德區的晚餐 | 晚上8點半
To get to the heart of modern Roman cuisine, get out of the heart of the city. On a quiet lane in the residential neighborhood of Monteverde, L’Osteria di Monteverde is a casual restaurant whose unremarkable exterior gives no hint of the outstanding food served inside. At a recent meal, beef tartare was a gustatory revelation after the addition of an eggy Parmigiano cream, porcini mushrooms and fried quail egg. Roasted octopus resting atop rosemary-scented borlotti beans got a boost from fresh stracciatella cheese. And spaghetti smothered with sheep’s cheese and baccalà was set aflame by a dollop of fiery ‘nduja (spicy Calabrian sausage). Dinner for two, about 60 euros.
要想了解現代羅馬美食的精髓，需要離開市中心，來到蒙特韋爾德住宅區一條僻靜的小巷。休閒餐館蒙特韋爾德客棧(L’Osteria di Monteverde)其貌不揚，讓人猜不到裏面的食物竟如此美味。前不久我在那裏用餐時點了韃靼牛排，裏面加有蛋味帕爾瑪奶油、牛肝菌和煎鵪鶉蛋，簡直是令人驚喜的味覺體驗。烤章魚放在迷迭香味粉色菜豆上，鮮軟奶酪更是爲之平添風味。用羊奶酪和鱈魚乾燜制的意大利細麪條被一大團卡拉布里亞辣醬點燃。兩人晚餐約需60歐元。
10. Twilight Tipples | 11 p.m.
10. 黃昏的烈酒 | 晚上11點
For a nightcap, cross Monteverde to Vineria Litro, a relaxed wine bar that opened in late 2013. The mirrored bar is lined with rare mezcals, so try a cocktail like the Mezsconi, which modifies the classic Negroni by swapping out gin for the smoky spirit. Or take the tram back to the center, where squirreled away on a small piazza is No. Au, a laid-back cafe serving natural wines and craft beers. Pull a wooden stool up to the bar and order a glass of Sicilian red from Occhipinti or an IPA from Birra del Borgo.
穿過蒙特韋爾德區，來到令人放鬆的Vineria Litro葡萄酒吧，喝一杯睡前小酒。這個裝滿鏡子的酒吧是2013年底開的，裏面擺放着一排排罕見的麥斯卡爾酒(mezcal)，所以你可以品嚐一下麥斯卡爾雞尾酒，它是對經典的內格羅尼酒(Negroni)的改造，用嗆人的烈酒代替杜松子酒。或者乘電車返回市中心，去慵懶的No. Au咖啡館，它藏在一個小廣場的角落裏，供應天然葡萄酒和精釀啤酒。拉個木凳到吧檯，點一杯Occhipinti西西里紅葡萄酒或Birra del Borgo印度淺色麥芽啤酒(IPA)。
11. Holy House | 10 a.m.
11. 神聖的房子 | 上午10點
On Sunday mornings, masses gather at St. Peter’s Basilica to angle for a glimpse of the popular Pope Francis. But far fewer congregate at the second-largest basilica, San Paolo Fuori le Mura, making this sacred site ideal for unhurried contemplation. The nave’s soaring ceilings and gilded frescoes are impressive, but hidden beyond one transept is an even finer feature: the cloister (admission, 4 euros), a tranquil courtyard with beautiful mosaics, a trickling fountain and blooming roses for much of the year.
週日上午，人們聚集在聖彼得大教堂(St. Peter’s Basilica)，期待一睹深受歡迎的教皇方濟各(Pope Francis)的風采。不過聚在羅馬第二大教堂聖保羅(San Paolo Fuori le Mura)的人要少得多，因此這個神聖的地方成了從容沉思的理想場所。教堂中殿高聳的天花板和鍍金壁畫令人震撼，不過藏在側翼的修道院更是迷人（門票4歐元），安靜的庭院中有漂亮的鑲嵌地面、涓流噴泉以及四季常開的玫瑰花。
12. Power Couple | Noon
12. 強悍的一對 | 正午
For a lesson in adaptive reuse, walk north on the main drag of the industrial Ostiense neighborhood to Centrale Montemartini. There, a former thermoelectric power plant is now a museum housing ancient sculptures and artifacts from the Capitoline Museums. Most striking are the main exhibition spaces where milky-white marble sculptures stand in stark contrast to the hulking black equipment — engines, boiler and steam turbines that helped power the city in the past, repurposed as foils for art in the present. Admission, 7.50 euros.
沿着工業區奧斯提恩斯(Ostiense)的主道向北走，去了解改造性再利用的一個極佳例子——馬爾蒂尼山中心(Centrale Montemartini)。這裏從前是個熱電廠，如今是個博物館，收藏來自卡皮托裏尼博物館(Capitoline Museums)的古代雕塑和手工藝品。最驚人的是主展廳——奶白色大理石雕塑與龐大的黑色機械設備對立，形成鮮明的對比，比如發動機、鍋爐和蒸汽輪機，這些設備曾用來給這座城市發電，如今用作藝術襯托。門票7.50歐元。
13. Pizza, Pizza | 2 p.m.
13. 披薩，披薩 | 下午2點
No weekend in Rome would be complete without pizza. For the thin-crust Roman style, go to Emma, a chic pizzeria that opened in the historic center in 2014. The pizzas, so thin and light they’re nearly translucent, are made with dough from the celebrated baker Pierluigi Roscioli and with toppings from the family-owned Salumeria Roscioli nearby. For pizza al taglio (by the slice), go to Pizzarium, a take-away shop owned by the master pizzaiolo Gabriele Bonci that is scheduled to reopen March 8 after a much-needed expansion. Choices skew toward the unconventional, like roasted zucchini with ricotta, but they’re all delicious. Either meal will end as every Roman holiday should: with a full belly.
在羅馬，沒吃披薩的週末是不完整的。想吃羅馬風格的薄殼披薩，就去時髦的艾瑪披薩店(Emma)，它是2014年在歷史悠久的市中心開設的。那裏的披薩又薄又亮，幾乎是透明的。麪糰來自著名的Pierluigi Roscioli麪包房，餡料來自附近家庭自營的Salumeria Roscioli熟食店。想吃按塊賣的披薩，就去外賣披薩店Pizzarium，店主是披薩大師加布裏埃爾·邦奇(Gabriele Bonci)，該店經過急需的擴建後，計劃於3月8日重新開業。這裏的披薩不是很傳統，比如乳清乾酪烤西葫蘆披薩，不過都很好吃。不管在哪家，你都會把肚子吃得圓滾滾的，所有的羅馬假日都應該這樣收尾。
In a 17th-century palazzo in the historic center, D. O. M (Via Giulia 131; ; from 240 euros) is a luxurious hotel with 24 rooms and suites that opened in late 2013. The richly textured décor is an appealing mix of old and new — think artworks ranging from Renaissance-era marble inscriptions to Andy Warhol silk-screens — and the clubby rooftop terrace is a new hot spot for aperitivi in warmer months.
D. O. M酒店（朱莉婭街131號；；房價240歐元起）位於歷史悠久的市中心的一座17世紀宮殿裏。這個奢華的酒店有24個房間和套間，2013底開業。這裏質地豐富的裝飾品是新與舊的迷人結合——從文藝復興時代的大理石碑文到安迪·沃霍爾(Andy Warhol)的絲網印畫——在溫暖的季節裏，僅對房客開放的屋頂露臺是喝開胃酒的好地方。
Midcentury furniture mingles with marble sculptures at the J.K. Place Roma (Via di Monte d’Oro 30; ; from 500 euros), a 30-room hotel that opened in 2013. The eye-catching design by the architect Michele Bönan features colorful palettes, stately four-poster beds and common spaces adorned with Berber rugs and a futuristic chandelier.
J.K. Place Roma酒店（Monte d’Oro大街30號；；500歐元起）2013年開業，有30個房間。這裏融合了中世紀傢俱和大理石雕塑。建築師米歇爾·博南(Michele Bönan)的搶眼設計包括多彩的色調、堂皇的四帷柱牀，以及裝飾着貝爾貝地毯(Berber)和未來主義枝形吊燈的公共空間。
