歐羅巴十二寶之倫敦的帽子

For the Travel section’s Oct. 19 issue on Europe, writers and editors selected special items to profile from a dozen cities. Below, explore everything from chocolate in Brussels to silk in Florence to design in Copenhagen.

在歐洲版10月19日旅遊板塊，作者與編輯精選了十二個城市的獨特珍寶，下面，我們從布魯塞爾的巧克力、佛羅倫薩的絲綢到哥本哈根的設計，逐一欣賞吧。

London: Hats

倫敦的帽子

“Americans are not always sure what to do with hats,” said Rachel Trevor-Morgan, who was seated in the second-floor showroom of her millinery at 18 Crown Passage. This tiny lane is one of the oldest pedestrian streets in central London, complete with gas lamps — a suitable setting for one of the oldest industries in England.

“美國人不太明白應該怎麼戴帽子。”瑞秋·特萊福-摩根(Rachel Trevor-Morgan)說，她坐在自己位於倫敦皇冠大道18號的女帽店二層的展覽室裏。這條小街是倫敦市中心最古老的步行街之一，街邊的煤氣燈爲英格蘭最古老的這一行業構成了恰到好處的背景。

Ms. Trevor-Morgan was surrounded by hats of all shapes (wide-brimmed, pillbox, beret, fascinators), in materials like silk taffeta, wool houndstooth, velour felt, straw and lace. Embellishments included peacock or spiky feathers, silk flowers or sheer veils, bows or curls.

特萊福-摩根女士身邊圍繞着形形色色的帽子（寬檐帽、小圓帽、貝雷帽、羽毛頭飾等），材料包括塔夫綢、犬牙織紋羊毛、絲絨、草和蕾絲。飾物有孔雀尾羽或其他長羽毛、絹花或者面紗、蝴蝶結或捲髮。

“The point is to feel beautiful, not silly,” said Ms. Trevor-Morgan, who has designed some 65 hats for Queen Elizabeth over the last decade and creates bespoke hats for all occasions. She recommends clients make a one-hour appointment and bring along the outfit for a particular event so she can match the color. (Prices generally are 200 to 2,000 pounds, or about $313 to $3,135, at $1.57 to the pound.)

“關鍵是要讓人覺得漂亮，而不是傻。”特萊福-摩根女士說。過去十年中，她爲伊麗莎白女王設計了65頂帽子，專門爲各種重大場合而定製。她建議顧客預約一小時的面談時間，把特定場合所穿的衣服拿來，好讓她搭配顏色。（售價通常200至2000英鎊；按照1英鎊等於1.57美元計算，合313至3135美元。）

Just below her store is Lock & Company, which claims to be the oldest hat shop in the world. Established in 1676 and famous for topping the heads of Adm. Lord Nelson and Winston Churchill, it can be perused by men and women alike looking for everything from rain hats (£79) to a fedora (roughly £200) to a faux fur hat (on average, £200).

她的店鋪下面就是洛克公司(Lock & Company)，它始建於1676年，號稱是全世界最古老的帽子店，因納爾遜勳爵(Adm. Lord Nelson)和丘吉爾戴過而聞名於世，同等層次的人羣也會來這裏選購帽子，包括雨帽（79英鎊）、費多拉男式軟呢帽（大約200英鎊）以及人造皮毛帽（均價200英鎊）。

The designer Edwina Ibbotson, whose latest royal client is Pippa Middleton, says she can tell if a hat is right for a woman when she sees “that sparkle in her eye.”

設計師艾德維娜·依波遜(Edwina Ibbotson)的最新皇室客戶是皮帕·米德爾頓(Pippa Middleton)。她說，一個女人如果戴對了帽子，你甚至可以看到“她眼裏的光芒”。

Some celebrities are gravitating to the milliner Jess Collett, whose shop in the heart of the trendy Notting Hill area she likens to a “candy store.” Her clients include Thandie Newton and Kate Hudson, as well as the royal sisters Princesses Eugenie and Beatrice. Her hats have a playful, theatrical feel, from a red feather Mohawk to a swirling constellation of flowers.

有些名人青睞女帽製造品牌傑絲·柯萊特(Jess Collett)，她家的店鋪位於時尚中心區諾丁山。她把店鋪比喻成一個糖果店，客戶包括桑迪·牛頓(Thandie Newton)和凱特·哈德森(Kate Hudson)及王室姐妹花尤金妮公主和碧翠絲公主。她家的帽子有着頑皮的戲劇感，從一根紅羽毛的莫霍克到旋轉星羣般的花冠。

“I want everyone to want to wear a hat,” Ms. Collett said. “It automatically makes you more interesting.” Or, as London’s arguably most fashionable hat maker, Philip Treacy, put it: “A hat can completely change the personality of the wearer. I like to make hats that make the heart beat faster.” JENNIFER CONLIN

“我希望人人都戴帽子。”柯萊特女士說，“戴上帽子，你頓時就迷人起來。”而倫敦最時尚的帽子製造商菲利普·特里希(Philip Treacy)說：“一頂帽子能完全改變人的性情。我喜歡製造讓人心跳加速的帽子。”詹妮弗·柯林(JENNIFER CONLIN)供稿。