納粹集團對時尚行業的10點驚人影響(上)

The Third Reich left a lasting imprint on the world. The legacy of Adolf Hitler and his Nazi Party is almost impossibly vile and vast. Starting the biggest war this planet has ever seen while committing multiple genocides on an unprecedented scale is a surefire way to stick in the minds of people forever. But Nazi Germany's influence exists in all sorts of other peculiar ways as well.

第三帝國給這個世界留下了深深的烙印。阿道夫·希特勒和他的納粹軍團留給世界的幾乎只有罪惡——發動全球有史以來最大規模的種族性大屠殺就足以讓人們永遠記住他們的“光輝事蹟”。但是除此之外，德國納粹軍的影響同樣以各種令人意想不到的形式展現出來。

Here is a list of 10 ways the Fuhrer and his collaborators influenced the world of fashion.

以下就是希特勒和他的納粹軍團對世界潮流的影響。

Cared About Style

10.納粹風格的形成

The Nazis may well have been as close to evil as we have ever seen, but they understood branding. Senior Nazi and Reich Minister of Propaganda Joseph Goebbels knew all about the power of appearance. He knew that scruffy combat fatigues instill very little fear in people. But pristine uniforms tailored to make the wearer look as tall, broad, and imposing as possible have an intense impact.

在我們眼裏，納粹黨如同惡魔般的存在，但他們確實懂時尚。納粹軍團的高級領袖兼納粹德國時期宣傳部部長約瑟夫·戈培爾深知表面視覺效果的力量。他認為破舊的軍服不足以給人們很強的威懾力，而經過精心裁剪後的傳統軍裝卻能使人顯得高大、偉岸，甚至給人緊張壓迫感。

Goebbels was a stickler for precision, especially when it came to fashion. It is rumored that he owned hundreds of suits so that he would never have to wear the same one twice in any given calendar year.

戈培爾是一個高度重視細節的人，尤其在時尚方面。傳聞道，戈培爾有幾百套正裝，就是為了不出現同一套西裝穿兩次的情況。

By insisting on having such a recognizable look, Goebbels was instilling in the Nazis a strong brand presence. Never before had military aggression and fashion come together so forcefully. And it made a big impact. The world of high fashion has shown signs of military—and specifically Nazi—influence ever since.

通過強調外表的辨識度，戈培爾成功地給納粹軍灌輸了高度的品牌形象意識。在這之前，軍隊和時尚不可能這麼緊密地結合，可以説，這是納粹的一個創舉——從那時開始，時尚界開始出現軍隊風，尤其是納粹風。

r Uniforms Are Now The Go-To For 'Evil'

9.納粹制服成為“邪惡風”的首選

Since their birth in the 1930s, Nazi uniforms have served as a benchmark for "evil" costume design. Given the scope of their crimes and the staggering level of atrocities the Nazis were responsible for, it is no huge surprise that modern fiction often stylizes its villains as Nazi-esque.

從上世紀三十年代誕生開始，納粹軍裝就成了“邪惡風”設計的基準。在知道納粹犯下的史無前例的驚天罪行後，你就會很容易理解為什麼很多現代小説中把反派角色描述為“納粹式”。

Nazism is an easy signifier for audiences that the bad guys are, well, bad. We have seen it time and time again in film. Take George Lucas's The Empire Strikes Back, for example. The Galactic Empire in their military-style getups could easily be mistaken for being Third Reich.

納粹主義是一種向觀眾表示壞人形象的簡單方式，因為，他們已經壞透頂了。我們也能在經常在電影中看到這樣的描述。以喬治·盧卡斯的星球大戰Ⅱ：帝國反擊戰為例，當看到銀河帝國的軍隊服裝樣式時，很容易把他們錯當成第三帝國軍。

Lucas has even admitted as much: "The Nazis are basically the same costume as we used in the first film, and they are designed to be very authoritarian, very Empire-like."

盧卡斯自己也承認説：“納粹的軍服和我們在第一部電影中用到的服裝大致相同，不得不説，他們的服裝非常有帝國獨裁主義的風範。”

Chanel

8.可可·香奈兒

When Hitler's men began invading Europe, Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel was already an established and respected fashion designer. Better known by her nickname "Coco," she had pioneered the svelte and iconic "little black dress." But the Nazi occupation of France was to catapult her to superstardom. And in the most unusual way.

在希特勒開始佔領歐洲之時，加布裏埃·可可·香奈兒就已經是一位小有成就且備受尊敬的時裝設計師了。以能展現曲線魅力的“小黑裙”為標誌，香奈兒憑藉着其小名“Coco”聞名。而納粹佔領法國可謂是她成為超級明星路上的關鍵，也是最出乎意料的方式。

Instead of resisting or going into hiding, Chanel decided—effectively—to embrace Nazi rule. She took a German lover by the name of Hans Gunther von Dincklage and became a spy, helping recruit for the Third Reich.

沒有抵制，也沒有到處躲躲藏藏，香奈兒最終決定去接受並慢慢適應納粹的規矩。她與蓋世太保高級將領兼情報專家馮·丁克拉格男爵相愛，併成為一名納粹間諜，為第三帝國獲取情報。

After the war ended, far from being shunned for her behavior, Chanel was quickly established as the foremost French fashion designer of the day. And she wasted no time in building her empire. If anything, the rumors of her association with Nazi Germany gave the Chanel brand publicity and even, strangely, an air of mystique and invulnerability.

戰爭結束後，香奈兒不但沒有因為可以避開這一段過往，反而以當時法國最有影響力的服裝設計師的身份迅速建立了“香奈兒”品牌。在建立“香奈兒王國”的過程中她也絲毫沒有遲疑。如果真要説香奈兒與納粹德國的關係有什麼影響的話，更多的是給香奈兒這個品牌更好的宣傳，甚至説增加了一絲神聖不可侵犯的神祕感。

hbrush Mustaches

7.牙刷式小鬍子

It seems ridiculous now, but people once loved the toothbrush mustache. Were it not for Adolf Hitler's adoption of it, we might see it adorning the upper lips of men today. Pre-Fuhrer, it was a popular style of mustache. Oliver Hardy and Charlie Chaplin—two of the biggest stars in the world at the time—both wore one with pride and inspired men across the world to follow suit.

雖然現在看來牙刷式小鬍子很滑稽，但是它卻曾經一度備受人們喜愛。要不是因為希特勒，如今我們也會覺得它作為一種裝飾性鬍鬚還挺不錯的。至少，在希特勒時代，可以稱得上是一種時尚。奧列佛·哈台和查理·卓別林這兩位舉世聞名的大明星，都曾蓄過這樣的鬍子，並且帶着滿滿的自信。他們甚至還在全世界引發了這樣一股熱潮。

It wasn't Chaplin that influenced Hitler to trim his facial hair into the shape of a toothbrush, though. That is an urban myth. Initially, Hitler wore his mustache long, in the popular handlebar style. But, while fighting in The Great War, it would get in the way of his gas mask. So he trimmed it down to fit. And kept it like that.

但是，希特勒之所以把鬍子留成牙刷狀，卻並不是受卓別林的影響。民間傳言説，起初，希特勒蓄有長長的絡腮鬍，然而，在一戰期間，他的絡腮鬍總會妨礙他戴防毒面具，於是他修了修鬍子，留成了牙刷式。

Boss

6.雨果·波士

We told you earlier how Joseph Goebbels made sure that Nazi officers always looked the part. And that was never more true than when he oversaw the design and production of the uniforms for the most feared of all the Nazi military units, the Schutzstaffel (better known as the "SS").

在前文中我們有提到説，約瑟夫·戈培爾是如何讓納粹軍官在眾多軍隊中自成體系，獨樹一幟的。而這一點，在他對於納粹部隊中最有威望的親衞隊（通常稱為“SS”）的制服設計生產中，顯得尤為突出。

The sight alone of the black dress uniforms and the sinister Death's Head Skull on their caps was enough to cause terror. Black being, historically, an evil-oriented color. And Death's Head Skulls being, well, Death's Head Skulls.

就只看他們黑色系的軍裝，加上帽子上可怕的骷髏頭圖案就足以給人恐懼感。黑色向來代表着邪惡與黑暗勢力，而骷髏頭，都知道的，象徵着死亡的骷髏頭。

Goebbels instructed Munich-based outfitter Hugo Boss and his staff to create the SS uniforms. Boss was already producing the infamous "brown shirts" at the time anyway (as worn by the Sturmabteilung, the feared paramilitary wing that met its end in the bloody left-wing purge of 1934 known as "The Night of the Long Knives").

戈培爾下令讓慕尼黑本土服裝店雨果·波士為SS生產製服。其實在那時，雨果·波士已經在為納粹生產製作相傳臭名昭著的“棕色襯衫”（即納粹衝鋒隊的制服，納粹衝鋒隊在1934年的“長刀之夜”中陣亡。）

And when high-ranking Nazis told you to do something, you did it. So it is difficult to lay too much blame at Boss's door. Although he did go on to preside over a production line that used almost entirely forced labor.

但是這也不能過分怪罪與雨果·波士，畢竟在那樣的情形下，有了納粹的指示，你不得不這樣做。但事實也確實如此，為了生產，他大量使用強制勞動力，壓榨工人利益。

A lot of you out there probably still buy Hugo Boss suits, cologne, and sunglasses. But would you if you truly knew their role in World War II? If it helps, they have since apologized for what happened.

也許當你們中有很多人去德國後，會買雨果·波士的衣服、香水和墨鏡，不過在你知道了這個品牌在二戰中的所作所為後，還會繼續購買嗎？當然了，如果真的就此減少了大量購買力的話，他們早就會公開懺悔了。