歐美二手名牌時裝網店走紅(上)
Second-hand used to be a taboo.
買舊衣服穿，在過去是大忌。
No self-respecting fashion fan would admit to buying someone’s cast-offs, especially just a few seasons old.
有自尊心的時尚擁躉都不會坦承自己買過別人穿過的二手衣服（尤其是隻過了幾個時尚季的裝束）。
Fashion was all about new, new, new.
時尚過去總是以新爲上。
Times have changed. Now it’s about the nearly new; pre-owned pieces bought for a thrifty price, just a few seasons after their catwalk debut.
但如今早已今非昔比，現今追求的是八成新，只過了幾個時裝季的二手裝往往以很優惠的價格就能淘到手。
At the same time, avid shoppers have become shrewd sellers, turning to booming consignment websites to shift unwanted goods quickly and conveniently.
與此同時，狂熱的買家如今搖身一變成了精明的賣家，他們藉助快速發展的代銷網站便捷處理自己的累贅東西。
Previously, their options were donating or going through the inconvenient, time-consuming process of selling-on through bricks and mortar stores.
在過去，他們的處理辦法不是捐贈就是通過實體店轉賣，既麻煩又費時。
Online, the vast eBay marketplace was their only obvious option.
而規模空前的eBay在線拍賣市場曾是其唯一選擇。
Julie Wainwright, chief executive and founder of The RealReal, noticed a gap in the market.
The RealReal創始人兼CEO朱麗•溫賴特(Julie Wainwright)注意到了市場存在的巨大缺口。
As a shopper, you run out of space in your closet.
對買家來說，家裏的儲衣櫃已無多餘存儲空間。
After a while it just piles up.
過不了多久，就會衣滿爲患。
Before us your options for reselling were limited and clunky, she explains.
大家把它們再轉賣的選擇餘地既小又彆扭。她解釋道。
In five years of business (predominantly in the US), The RealReal has sold on 2.5m items.
運營五年來（主戰場在美國市場），The RealReal已成功售出250萬件物件。
Chanel, Hermès, Prada, Rolex and Louis Vuitton are some of the biggest sellers. Consignors earn 60 to 70 per cent of the sale.
香奈兒(Chanel)、愛馬仕(Hermès)、普拉達(Prada)、勞力士(Rolex)以及路易威登(Louis Vuitton)是最受歡迎的品牌。零售價的60-70%歸委託人所有。
Second-hand used to have a stigma. Today it has none: worldwide last year $200bn dollars of personal luxury products went into the market, in the US $60bn were sold, says Wainwright.
買二手時裝在過去是件丟臉的事，如今則大不一樣了：去年全球個人奢侈品的銷售額高達2000億美元，光美國就達600億美元。
There are multiple reasons — one is a generational shift, one is a green thing — when you buy something previously owned, you’re recycling, it’s a circular economy — the other is the internet and access to information.
溫賴特說，買賣二手貨原因多種多樣——其中之一是出於更新換代，第二個原因是爲了環保：購買二手貨屬於回收利用，是循環經濟；另一大原因是因特網的廣泛應用以及獲取信息的渠道異常便捷。
To her, the biggest shift that laid the foundations of the consignment boom occurred in 2008.
在她看來，奠定網絡代銷蓬勃發展基礎的最大轉變始於2008年。
It was such a devastating time for almost everyone and the financial crisis brought a sense of guilt to shopping.
金融危機對幾乎所有人造成了毀滅性打擊，當時花錢購物有某種負罪感。
That said, no one is going to stop buying luxury but post-2008 the idea of buying luxury on value became important.
即便如此，消費者仍然大肆購買奢侈品，但2008年金融危機後，高性價比地購買奢侈品變得越來越盛行。
While the US market is dominated by The RealReal, France’s Vestiaire Collective has monopolised the European market.
美國市場由The RealReal主宰，而歐洲市場的主導者是法國電商Vestiaire Collective。
It started in 2009 with just 3,000 items from friends and networks, discloses Fanny Moizant, one of the site’s original six.
據該電商最初6位創始人之一的範妮•莫藏(Fanny Moizant)透露：網店創建於2009年，起初只有朋友與其它網站提供的3000件二手奢侈品。
Now, they have more than 400,000 items online and took Euro78m in 2015.
如今，網站銷售的二手奢侈品超過了40萬件，2015年的利潤高達7800萬歐元。
Its bestsellers are Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Louboutin, though mid-priced labels such as Isabel Marant and Maje also do well.
網站最暢銷的品牌是路易威登、香奈兒以及婁伯丁(Louboutin)，儘管伊莎貝爾•瑪蘭(Isabel Marant)與Maje等中等價位品牌也異常搶手。
Moizant also cites the financial crisis as a catalyst.
瑪蘭也認爲2008年金融危機是二手奢侈品網店井噴式發展的催化劑。
I saw the marketing phenomenon that was the fashion bloggers.
我當初看到各大時尚博主這類營銷現象。
In France they were called the Recessionistas, because they appeared at the height of the crisis and were finding a smart way of reselling their own pieces on blogs and making money, even though there was no real system.
在法國，這些人被稱爲‘不景氣時尚達人’(Recessionistas)，因爲他們出現在金融危機最嚴重的時候，找到了一種在博客兜售自己用過的奢侈品並且賺錢的妙招，儘管當時並沒有實際銷售平臺。
She agrees that the taboo around second-hand has disappeared.
她也認同社會上二手奢侈品犯忌之說已煙消雲散的看法。
