女妝新潮流 雕塑型臉蛋引領時尚

My sister Lizzie used to say that the difference between “attractive” and “beautiful” was cheekbones. Obviously, the only people who make these sorts of pronouncements are those who have killer-cheekbones (and she does).

我妹妹麗茲以前常說“迷人”與“漂亮”就在於顴骨間的差別。很顯然，敢如此“大言不慚”的人只可能是那些擁有出衆顴骨的美眉（她無疑就屬於此類）。

That aside, she may have a point. Why else would the world seem to have gone crazy trying to get them? The mania surrounding contouring — the art of highlighting and lowlighting different parts of your face to enhance the shape of certain features (the bridge of the nose, the roundness of the cheekbones, etc) — not only plagues my Instagram feed but has spawned a sub-industry of “contouring kits”.

拋開個人因素，她也許言之有理。那還有什麼其它理由讓芸芸衆生對迷人的顴骨如此癡狂？顴骨塑形之風盛行，不僅讓我爲此整天在Instagram上搗鼓，而且催生出“臉部塑形行頭”的分支產業。

Kim Kardashian is largely responsible for the obsession, even though she appears to have toned it down lately, and it’s now a fixed point for every 16-year-old vlogging on YouTube. I’ve seen rectangles, triangles and circles of painstakingly painted-on foundation, powder, bronzer and highlighter, all of which remind me of my childhood painting-by — numbers kits. The results are invariably neither attractive nor beautiful; they just look odd.

真人秀明星金•卡戴珊(Kim Kardashian)對擁躉們的“執迷不悟”可謂難辭其咎，儘管她本人最近似乎已收斂好多，如今16歲的少女們在YouTube播影客(vlogging)早已司空見慣。我自己曾見過女士們費勁心思在臉上厚厚地塗抹粉底、粉末、古銅色及高光等彩妝產品——矩形、三角形以及圓形的款式應有盡有，這不由得讓人想起兒時使用特定顏色填充帶有編號區域的畫筆盒(painting-by- numbers kits)。用彩妝最終搗鼓出來的模樣既不迷人，也不漂亮，總之就是一個怪。

Contouring first became popular in a big way in the 1970s thanks to make-up artists such as Kevyn Aucoin and Way Bandy. The latter laid down the rules in his 1977 book Defining Your Face. His “sculpture-portrait” technique involved the precision placement of shadows and highlights to create thinner noses, higher cheekbones and prettier jawlines. But while these sorts of looks were great on Jerry Hall and Marie Helvin under the bright lights of a Vogue shoot or the disco-balls of Studio 54, it was very much a look of its time. Even in its updated format, I don’t think it works now.

臉部塑形盛行於上世紀70年代，這完全歸功於凱文•奧庫安(Kevyn Aucoin)與邦迪(Way Bandy)等化妝大師。邦迪在1977年出版的專著《重整漂亮臉蛋》(Defining Your Face)中確立了臉部塑形的規則。他創造的“雕塑式臉蛋塑造技法”涉及精確佈局的明暗度，打造出細長型鼻子、高高的顴骨以及更爲迷人的下巴。但是，雖說《Vogue》亮光型拍攝風格以及Studio 54錄音室讓如此造型在傑瑞•霍爾(Jerry Hall)與瑪麗•海爾文(Marie Helvin)等名模身上光彩照人，但它們基本仍屬於那個時代的風格。如今即便“升級改造”，我認爲也難以奏效。

“Contouring is making people a lot of money,” says Rose-Marie Swift, the make-up artist behind the brand RMS Beauty, whose client Gisele Bündchen always looks fabulously chisel-boned without any help at all. “[But] in real life, it just pulls the face down, makes people look gaunt and essentially looks fake.” How fake? “I saw Jennifer Lopez the other day and when she turned to the side she looked like she had a bronze chocolate bar stuck on her face,” says Swift.

“臉部塑形費用驚人，” 創建RMS Beauty品牌的彩妝大師羅斯•瑪麗-斯威芙特(Rose-Marie Swift)說，她的客戶包括了超模吉賽爾•邦辰(Gisele Bündchen)，對方永遠長着那張渾然天成的鑿子形迷人臉蛋。“但在現實生活中，每當卸完妝，臉部就顯得異常憔悴，前後模樣大相徑庭。”我問她反差有多大？斯威芙特回答說：“我有次碰見詹尼弗•洛佩茲(Jennifer Lopez)，對方轉臉時，臉上就象貼了塊古銅色的巧克力。”

Clearly it’s time to stop this madness. Quit contouring. For ever. Instead, if it’s naturally enhanced cheekbones you’re after, learn to love blushing and bronzing. It’s also much simpler. To which end, here’s how to create a sculpture-portrait for 2015 . . . 

很顯然，這股臉部塑形之風如今該休矣，該是徹底終結的時候了。相反，諸位若是追求自然長成的高顴骨，不妨學着使用腮紅與古銅色彩妝，而且這更容易實現。以下是如此塑造今年最時尚“雕塑型臉蛋”的幾步高招……

1. Know the result that you’re aiming for. The point of bronzer is to look like you’ve been lying in the sun and enjoying it. Swift’s tip is to brush it on lightly in horizontal strokes across the forehead, from cheek to cheek skimming the bridge of the nose, and adding a little on the jawline to balance it out. I love Chantecaille’s HD Perfecting Bronze (£62), which doesn’t have too much of a shimmer so you can sweep it over the sun-points of the face.

1．清楚自己的終極目標。古銅色彩妝達到的效果就是長時間太陽浴後的膚色。斯威芙特的建議是：在整個額頭處橫向輕抹，還有除鼻樑之外的整個臉頰，最後在下巴處也塗抹一些，這樣處理不會有啥反差。我最喜歡用香緹卡(Chantecaille)的HD Perfecting Bronze彩妝（售價62英鎊），因爲抹了它，臉部不會發亮，因此可以蓋掉臉部因太陽照射後形成的斑點。

2. Love your blusher — it’s your bronzer’s favourite playmate. Burberry’s Lip and Cheek Bloom (£24, released later this month), in creamy textured colours, is exceptionally pretty; you can dab it on your lips, too. I also really like Tom Ford’s Cream Cheek Color in Pink Sand (£46), which has a slightly pearlised texture for a sunshine glow. I love cream-textures but it’s worth experimenting with some of the new powder formulas, such as Nars’ Dual Intensity Blusher (£30), which can be applied wet for a wash-like effect, or dry. The powder, like Surratt’s powders (see 5, below), almost feels like cream, it’s that smooth.

2．用好腮紅————它是古銅色化妝品最好的搭檔。博柏利(Burberry)預定本月底推出的Lip and Cheek Bloom（售價24英鎊）爲乳脂質感的多色彩妝膏，女士們用後特別靚麗；它也可以輕輕抹在嘴脣處。我也很喜歡湯姆•福特的Cream Cheek Color in Pink Sand（售價46英鎊），它具有一絲珠光質感，用後臉部容光煥發。我非常喜歡用各種面霜類彩妝，但納斯(Nars)雙色腮紅（Dual Intensity Blusher，售價30英鎊）之類的新款產品也值得一試，它能幹溼兩用（塗抹溼款產品，如同剛出浴一般）。Surratt之類的彩粉末質感如同面霜，用後非常滑爽。

3. Where are you putting these cheekbone-enhancers? The blusher goes on the apples of the cheeks (never lower than your nostrils, or it will start to drag your face down). The bronzer or highlighter, if used just to accent, needs to sit slightly above, in an inverted C-shape but not in under-eye territory. Both need to be blended outwards in a feathery finish. No hard lines, please.

3．彩妝塗抹部位要一清二楚。腮紅應抹在臉蛋紅潤處（絕不能抹鼻孔線以下的臉蛋，否則臉形會顯得過長）。古銅色彩妝或是高光粉若只是起突出作用，應以倒C形方式抹於上半臉蛋，但絕不能抹於眼下方區域。兩者需混合後向臉外側塗抹，達到柔滑之效果。切勿生硬處理之。

4. If you have a little pigmentation or look naturally tanned, avoid matt powders and choose a bronzer with a bit more metallic shimmer to accentuate the skin. This is not something I’d usually suggest for anyone over 30 but RMS Beauty’s Buriti Bronzer (£25) has a buriti-oil base and no glitter so it’s both kind to the skin and flattering, as is Charlotte Tilbury’s Norman Parkinson Dreamy Glow Highlighter (£45) compact, released in July. Not only will the Carmen Dell’Orefice imagery on the compact out-trump any other gilt-edged compact emerging from handbags in Ibiza this summer, but the shimmer is so subtle and the powder so finely milled that it suits any age.

4．如果生有少許色斑或是膚色天生棕褐色，切勿使用亞光搽粉，選一款帶些許金屬光彩的古銅色彩妝以突出臉部膚色。但我從不向已過而立之年者推薦些此款彩妝，但RMS Beauty的Buriti Bronzer（售價25英鎊）主要成分是布里蒂果油(buriti-oil)，未添加任何亮光物質，因此既護膚、又靚麗，Charlotte Tilbury預定今年七月推出的Norman Parkinson Dreamy Glow Highlighter高光粉盒（售價45英鎊）同樣如此。卡門•戴爾•奧利菲斯(Carmen Dell’Orefice)等老超模用了該款產品後，不僅形象效果勝過Ibiza奢侈品牌集合店今夏將要推出的其它任何高檔粉盒，而且這款微亮彩妝尤爲柔和，粉末研磨得十分精細，因此適用於各個年齡段。

5. Finally, if you’re unsure what colours to choose, check out the Surratt make-up counter at Liberty (currently my favourite beauty haunt). With a little help from the make-up artist, I chose my bespoke summer compact colours: a peachy-blush (1 Guimauve, £23); an orangey highlighter (9 Aureole, £23); a pale gold eyeshadow that doubles as a highlighter (Chamois, £16); and a brown eyeshadow (Truffe, £16), all of which lock into a mirror-compact and can be swapped out. It’s my summer 2015 go-anywhere compact. Go anywhere except contouring, that is.

5．最後，若對顏色舉棋不定，那麼去Liberty百貨店的Surratt化妝品專櫃（它是本人最喜歡光顧的美容品專櫃）。在彩妝大師稍微點撥之下，我挑選了由幾款專用彩妝搭配而成的夏季粉盒：售價23英鎊的桃色腮紅1 Guimauve、售價23英鎊的橙色高光粉9 Aureole、同時能當高光粉用的淡金黃色眼影膏（售價16英鎊的Chamois）以及售價16英鎊的棕色眼影膏Truffe，所有彩妝均裝於帶鏡粉盒內，可以互相換着使用。這就是我隨身攜帶的2015年夏季粉妝盒，它是本人除了臉部整形之外的全部彩妝行頭。