Dolce Gabbana反對同性家庭引抨擊狂潮

Over the last 30 years, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have dressed Madonna, designed costumes for Baz Luhrmann movies and fended off one of the most convoluted tax evasion cases in recent business history.

過去30多年裏，杜梅尼克·多爾奇(Domenico Dolce)和斯蒂芬諾·加班納(Stefano Gabbana)爲麥當娜(Madonna)提供服裝，爲巴茲·魯赫曼(Baz Luhrmann)的電影設計戲服，並且從近年來商業史上最複雜的逃稅案件訴訟中逃脫。

Well before same-sex marriage became widely recognized around the world (though not in Italy), the two were openly living together as lovers, unapologetic as they showed up in their tight white T-shirts at gay clubs like the Sound Factory. A recent ad campaign for their fashion line, Dolce & Gabbana, seemed to extol group sex.

早在同性婚姻在全世界廣泛受到認可之前（儘管在意大利尚未得到承認），兩人便公然以戀人身份同居，身穿緊身白T恤衫，毫無愧色地在“聲音工廠”之類男同性戀俱樂部出雙入對。他們的時裝品牌杜嘉班納(Dolce & Gabbana)最近的廣告宣傳似乎又在讚美羣交。

So it was something of a surprise this week when word broke that the two men, who are no longer romantically involved but still run their business together, had given an interview in the Italian magazine Panorama in which they said they opposed gay people having families of their own.

這個星期傳來驚人的消息：戀愛關係已經走到盡頭，但仍然在一起經營生意的這兩位，在接受意大利雜誌《帕諾拉瑪》(Panorama)採訪時稱，他們不贊成男同性戀者組成自己的家庭。

“You are born to a mother and a father, or at least that’s how it should be,” Mr. Dolce said. “I call children of chemistry, synthetic children. Rented uterus, semen chosen from a catalog.”

“人們天生註定是爸爸和媽媽，至少應當如此，”多爾奇說，“我把那種化學手段生出來的孩子稱爲‘人工合成的孩子’，他們是用租來的子宮，從目錄裏選出來的精子生出來的。”

Outrage was swift.

此言引發的憤怒之情迅速蔓延開來。

Elton John, who has two children via in-vitro fertilization with his husband, David Furnish, called for a boycott of Dolce & Gabbana, a brand he has long worn. Courtney Love declared her intention to burn all the D&G clothing she owned. The director Ryan Murphy tweeted that Dolce & Gabbana’s clothes are “as ugly as their hate.”

埃爾頓·約翰和丈夫大衛·弗內什(David Furnish)擁有兩個通過試管嬰兒方式生下的孩子，他呼籲抵制杜嘉班納，這個品牌他已經穿了很久。柯妮·拉芙(Courtney Lve)宣佈，她打算燒掉自己所有的杜嘉班納服裝。導演瑞安·墨菲(Ryan Murphy)發推特說，杜嘉班納的服裝“和他們的憎恨一樣醜陋”。

Andy Cohen, the host of “Watch What Happens: Live,” said earlier this week that he was auctioning his black Dolce suit on eBay and would donate the money to the Family Equality Council, a gay rights organization. “Even though I loved this suit,” he said in the listing, “it wouldn’t be any fun for me to wear it again.” (By Wednesday afternoon, bidding had reached $1,850.)

“觀察：現場”(Watch What Happens: Live)的主持人安迪·科恩(Andy Cohen)本週早些時候說，他正在eBay上拍賣自己的黑色杜嘉班納西裝，並打算把拍得的款項捐贈給男同性戀權利組織“家庭平等委員會”。“儘管我喜歡那件衣服，”他在物品描述中說，“我也不會再樂意穿它了。”（截止週三下午，拍賣額已經達到1850美元）。

It was the second time in the last year that members of the fashion and entertainment communities have called for the boycott of a global brand over gay rights issues, the other involving the Dorchester hotels owned by the sultan of Brunei, among them the Beverly Hills Hotel, Le Meurice in Paris and the Principe di Savoia in Milan. Brunei is implementing laws allowing harsh punishment for gay sex and adultery.

一年來，這已是時尚與娛樂界第二次因爲同性戀權利問題而呼籲抵制某個國際品牌了。上一次遭抵制的是文萊蘇丹擁有的多切斯特酒店集團(Dorchester)，其中包括了貝弗利山莊酒店(Beverly Hills Hotel)、巴黎的默里斯酒店(Le Meurice)和米蘭的薩維亞普瑞斯普(Principe di Savoia)酒店。起因是文萊法律嚴懲同性性行爲及通姦。

The difference this time, in what seems like a tacit acknowledgment of the power a major advertiser wields in the publishing world: no editor of a fashion magazine contacted for this article would agree to comment or even be interviewed about the proposed boycott, not even Anna Wintour of Vogue, who took a very public stance over the Brunei issue, banning Vogue staff members from staying at those hotels and actively encouraging other Condé Nast executives to do the same.

這一次不同的是，大廣告商的勢力似乎對出版行業產生了心照不宣的影響：本文所聯繫的時尚雜誌主編都不願意就此發表意見，也不願就提議中的抵制問題接受採訪。《Vogue》雜誌的主編安娜·溫圖爾(Anna Wintour)曾在文萊事件中採取非常鮮明的立場，禁止《Vogue》的員工到多切斯特連鎖酒店下榻，還強烈建議康泰納仕集團(Condé Nast)旗下的其他管理層也這樣做，但這一次，就連她也沒有開腔。

This time, along with Ms. Wintour, Cindi Leive, the editor of Glamour, and Roberta Myers, the editor of Elle, declined to comment, as did the openly gay (and recently married) Ariel Foxman, InStyle’s editor.

除了溫圖爾，《Glamour》的主編辛迪·裏弗(Cindi Leive)和《Elle》的主編羅伯塔·米爾斯(Roberta Myers)都拒絕評論，還有《InStyle》的主編，已公開同性戀身份並且新近結了婚的艾利爾·福克斯曼(Ariel Foxman)。

Even Joanna Coles, the normally loquacious editor in chief of Cosmopolitan, was silent Wednesday. (Testy relations with the news media are nothing new for Dolce & Gabbana. The designers have banned the fashion critics for The New York Times from their Milan runway shows since 2007, when they were angered by a review of their collections that year.)

就連《Cosmopolitan》的主編、一貫多話的喬安娜·科爾斯(Joanna Coles)在星期三也緘口不語（杜嘉班納與新聞媒體關係向來不佳。2007年該品牌的米蘭時裝秀後，兩位設計師看到《紐約時報》關於杜嘉班納的一則評論後大爲光火，從此便禁止《紐約時報》的時尚評論家出席他們在米蘭的秀）。

And while Madonna declined to comment, associates of the singer seemed to be making subtle attempts this week to distance her from the designers, noting that her relationship with Mr. Dolce and Mr. Gabbana has been contentious over the years. The message: Lots of people have issues with them.

麥當娜也拒絕評論，這個星期，她的助手們似乎在小心翼翼地做出努力，強調她與多爾奇和加班納的關係多年來爭吵不斷，把她與這兩位設計師的距離拉開。說起來，倒是很多人都看他們不順眼。

For their part, Mr. Dolce and Mr. Gabbana issued an apology, of sorts, that did little to mollify their critics.

在多爾奇和加班納方面，他們發表了某種程度上的道歉，但並沒有緩解對他們的批評。

“We firmly believe in democracy and the fundamental principle of freedom of expression that upholds it,” Mr. Dolce said in a statement delivered by his spokesman, Paolo Cigognini, who declined further comment. “We talked about our way of seeing reality, but it was never our intention to judge other people’s choices.”

“我們堅決相信民主，以及自由表達這一民主的基本原則，”多爾奇通過發言人保羅·西格格尼尼(Paolo Cigognini)說，“我們說出了我們對真相的看法，但我們無意評判他人的選擇。”西格格尼尼拒絕發表進一步評論。

(On his Instagram page, Mr. Gabbana called Elton John a “fascist” and posted images of a Je Suis Charlie-style campaign, titled appropriately “Je Suis D&G.”)

（加班納在自己的Instagram頁面上說埃爾頓·約翰是“法西斯”，還貼了“我是查理”式的宣傳畫，標題是“我是杜嘉班納”。）

Italian fashion is largely a dynastic industry, but unlike Miuccia Prada, Donatella Versace or Angela Missoni, Mr. Dolce and Mr. Gabbana, who met in the early 1980s, do not come from money.

意大利時尚界以家族傳承居多，但與繆西婭·普拉達(Miuccia Prada)、多娜泰拉·範思哲(Donatella Versace)和安吉拉·米索尼(Angela Missoni)不同，相遇於80年代初的多爾奇和加班納並非出身富庶的家庭。

Mr. Dolce grew up in Sicily. His father, according to a 2005 New Yorker profile, was a tailor and his mother sold fabric and clothing at a local emporium.

多爾奇在西西里長大，根據2005年《紐約客》上的一則人物特寫，他的父親是個裁縫，母親在當地百貨商場裏賣布匹和衣服。

Mr. Gabbana is taller, flashier, perennially tan and rides around Milan, his hometown, on a leopard-print motorino. His father worked in a printing factory and his mother worked for a laundry service.

加班納身材更高、穿着更花哨，皮膚常年曬成古銅色，經常騎着帶豹紋的摩托車在家鄉米蘭一帶飆車。他的父親在印刷廠工作，母親在一個洗衣房裏工作。

The two began their business in 1985 and by the early 1990s, Madonna was wearing their clothes everywhere. She was the ideal spokeswoman for the two designers, who both rebelled against Roman Catholicism and yet revered its iconography.

1985年，兩人成立了自己的公司，90年代初，麥當娜開始穿他們設計的服裝到處亮相。她反抗羅馬天主教，但仍尊敬它的圖像，可以說是兩位設計師的理想代言人。

And like her, Dolce & Gabbana promulgated an image of excess but in real life were workhorses.

和她一樣，杜嘉班納也宣揚一種表面有些放肆，但在現實生活中，卻非常耐用的形象。

“You’d go into the stores and see all the studs and the bells and whistles in the front, but in the back there were surprisingly wearable clothes,” said the writer William Norwich, who worked for Vogue in the early 1990s.

“你到店裏去，表面上看到那些鉚釘和各種花哨的裝飾，但令人驚訝的是，它們其實是非常具有穿戴性的衣服，”90年代初，爲《Vogue》撰稿的威廉·諾威克(William Norwich)寫道。

The clothing business in the United States never became enormous, but by 2005, their company employed about 2,000 people.

美國的服裝業從來就沒有大過，但早在2005年，他們的公司就僱傭了約2000人。

They started a fragrance business, Mr. Gabbana appeared on reality shows and the two men even recorded a cover version of the Andrea True Connection’s 1976 disco classic, “More, More, More.” Which is just what they did. In 2003, according to The New Yorker, they sold more products in Italy than Gucci, Prada, Armani and Versace.

他們開始進軍香水產業，加班納開始在真人秀上亮相，兩人甚至翻唱了Andrea True Connection在1976年推出的迪斯科經典名曲《更多，更多，更多》(More, More, More)。他們就是這樣我行我素。根據《紐約客》報道，2003年，他們的產品在意大利的銷量超過了古馳、普拉達、阿瑪尼和範思哲。

Around this time, Dolce & Gabbana stopped being a pair — at least a romantic one. But in interviews, Mr. Gabbana talked openly about wanting children and made it clear he wasn’t referring to adoption.

就在這前後，多爾奇和加班納分手了，但依舊是事業搭檔。在許多訪談中，加班納都公開談起要孩子的事，還強調說自己不想收養孩子。

Instead, the two spent the next several years fighting charges of tax evasion. They were convicted in 2013 and given a 20-month suspended sentence, only to have that reversed and the conviction vacated by Italy’s highest court in October 2014.

兩人接下來的幾年時間裏，都在與逃稅指控做鬥爭。2013年，他們被判有罪，獲得20個月的緩刑期，2014年10月，意大利最高法院改判兩人無罪。

This February, they showed their latest collection in Milan. It drew heavily on that iconography and paid homage to mothers. Some of the models came down the runway holding babies. Others wore sweaters that said “I love you, Mama.”

今年2月，他們在米蘭展示了最新系列。它大量使用肖像，表現出對母親的敬意。有些模特抱着嬰兒走上秀臺，還有些人穿的套頭衫上寫有“我愛你，媽媽”字樣。

Shortly thereafter came the Panorama interview, where the designers expressed apparent opposition to gay families.

不久後就有了《帕諾拉瑪》的訪談，兩位設計師表達了對男同性戀家庭的鮮明反對。

“They’re alienating a large portion of the customer base,” said Ed Filipowski, the president of KCD, one of the fashion industry’s largest public relations firms. “They’re alienating women or anyone trying to have a child in vitro and they’re alienating their L.G.B.T. constituency. It’s a serious issue.” (He added that he found Elton John’s comments on the matter commendable.)

“他們這樣做等於是放棄了很大一部分客戶，”KCD公司總裁艾德·菲利波夫斯基(Ed Filipowski)說，KCD是時尚界最大的公關公司之一。“他們這樣等於放棄了希望通過試管嬰兒方式要孩子的女人以及所有人，放棄了自身的LGBT人羣基礎。這是個很嚴重的問題。”（他還補充說，埃爾頓·約翰對這件事的迴應是值得稱頌的）。

In what may turn out to be a P.R. problem in Hollywood, Dolce has long been a favorite on the red carpet. In 2011, Scarlett Johansson was decked out in a fitted lavender dress with a floral pattern. A year later, Selena Gomez showed up to the Vanity Fair in a gray sleeveless dress.

在引發好萊塢公關問題之前，多爾奇一直都是紅毯寵兒。2011年，斯嘉麗·約翰松(Scarlett Johansson)穿了杜嘉班納一件合身的淡紫色帶花朵圖案長裙。一年後，賽琳娜·戈麥斯(Selena Gomez)身穿一件灰色無袖長裙在《名利場》(Vanity Fair)上亮相。

Terrence Howard wore a Dolce tuxedo to the Kodak Theater this year. In the auditorium, he sat near Ms. Wintour, whose daughter, Bee Shaffer, arrived wearing a Dolce gown. (Also wearing Dolce at the Oscars: David Oyelowo and Channing Tatum.)

今年，特倫斯·霍華德(Terrence Howard)穿了一件多爾奇的晚禮服，在柯達劇場亮相。入場後，他坐在溫圖爾身邊，溫圖爾的女兒碧夏弗(Bee Shaffer)也穿了多爾奇的長袍。在奧斯卡頒獎禮上，大衛·奧伊羅(David Oyelowo)和查寧·塔圖姆(Channing Tatum)都穿了多爾奇的服裝。

Now, all these people risk getting an earful from gay rights organizations and their publicists.

現在，這些人都面臨遭到同性戀權力組織和他們的宣傳人員斥責的可能性。

“We have our annual Media Awards Saturday night,” said Sarah Kate Ellis, the president of Glaad, the gay rights organization. “We have a lot of people coming and we’re telling all of them that we would appreciate it if they not wear Dolce & Gabbana.”

“我們有年度媒體獎週六夜頒獎儀式，”同性戀權利組織Glaad協會主席莎拉·凱特·埃里斯(Sarah Kate Ellis)說。“會有很多人出席，我們會告訴所有人，如果他們不穿杜嘉班納，我們將表示感謝。”

Simon Halls, a founding partner of the entertainment public relations firm Slate PR, said: “I don’t think this is going to go away. I think people are really going to take them to task for this.”

西蒙·霍爾斯(Simon Halls)是娛樂公關公司Slate PR的創始人之一，他說：“我不覺得這事會馬上過去。我覺得人們會譴責他們。”

“These are families they’re talking about,” said Mr. Halls, who himself is an in-vitro fertilization parent along with his husband, the actor Matt Bomer. “These are children. Everybody’s got their own personal issues. Those guys are allowed as people to have their own opinions. But they also are public figures and when they communicate that kind of hate filled speech, they are firing up other like minded people in the most irresponsible way possible. It’s dangerous and despicable.”

“他們的話涉及家庭，”霍爾說，他自己也和丈夫、演員馬特·波莫(Matt Bomer)採取試管嬰兒方式剩下孩子。“還涉及孩子。所有人都面臨着個人的問題。他們當然可以像普通人一樣有自己的看法。但他們也是公衆人物，當他們說出那種充滿仇恨的話語時，就等於在以最不負責任的方式煽動那些和他們有類似看法的人。這是很危險，也很卑鄙。”

Some of the anger appeared to go beyond gay rights.

針對他們的憤怒超出了維護男同性戀權利的範疇。

Lynn Hirschberg, the editor at large at W Magazine, suggested that the designers’ heavy-handed behavior in the past was part of the reason the reaction has been so harsh.

《W雜誌》(W Magazine)的特約編輯琳恩·赫舍伯格(Lynn Hirschberg)認爲，兩位設計師過去那些拙劣的行爲也令這次人們對他們的反應格外嚴厲。

“They’ve been unkind and difficult for many, many years, and people have been waiting to respond,” she said. “This is an all debts must be paid kind of thing.”

“很多年來，他們一直爲人冷酷，不好相處，人們一直都在等機會反擊，”她說，“就像是惡有惡報。”